Approach / 03: Cuff Ring

Sommi Jewelry Cuff Ring

When I started designing the jewelry that will be part of the FW14 collection, it became clear to me that the majority of its pieces would be worn on our fingers. I can’t explain why, but almost all of my designs came in the form of rings. Although I wanted to include earrings, bracelets and necklaces in the collection, I decided to let my ideas flow in whichever way felt right.

Sommi Jewelry Alexandra Nieto Sketching

As a result, I had a lot of options when it came to deciding which rings I would carve in wax. The selection process was slow. I carved many rings that in the end didn’t make it to the final group. At the same time, I had a few sketched ideas, that even before I started carving, I knew would become part of the collection. One of these rings is the cuff ring shown in the first photo of
this post.

I loved the idea of designing a cuff ring where I could visually use the negative space created by the opening. I explored the idea of lines and how these could wrap around a finger creating an intricate, yet simple, visual. I thought it would be interesting to close the opening lines of each side of the cuff, resulting on an open polygon as the focal point on the top of the finger.

Sommi Jewelry Carving Cuff Ring

Above you can see the sequence of photos illustrating the main steps I took to carve the design (total of 12 hours), starting with a solid wax shank and ending with a ring ready to be cast in metal. Once the wax model is ready, I send it to NYC where they cast it and send it back to me. I, then, polish it to a bright shine.

(If you want to see more on my approach, you can do so here!)


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