08.22.2014

Approach 05 / Path Ring

SOMMI Jewelry Path Ring

When it comes to fabricating rings one of the most challenging parts of the process is making the designs in all the different ring sizes. Since I work in wax, most times I get to re-carve each ring at least three times. For example, I have already carved the Aura Ring twice, in sizes 7 and 8, and I still have to carve it in size 6 and probably in size 9 as well. Although you learn the ins and outs of a design and the best approach to carving a piece the first time around, somehow the process can be more difficult the second time because you are not only carving, but also replicating the piece.

My “production” approach for the new collection (FW14) was to have the ring designs ready in one or two sizes before the launch and then, after the big day, I would carve the extra sizes based on the orders I received. This week I had the chance to re-carve the Path ring for a special friend and decided to take some photos along the way so I could share them with you.

When I started sketching the Path ring, I wanted to create a double banded ring that was shorter in height than the other double banded rings I had already designed. My one requirement for this ring was to have some sort of straight vertical line connecting both bands in the middle of the ring. The solution was to create the connection by making the bottom band gradually become one as a vertical line and elongating it all the way to the top band.

Wax Carving Path Ring SOMMI Jewelry

Above you can see the sequence of photos that show the main steps I took to complete the design (total of seven hours), starting with a solid wax shank and ending with a shaped ring. For this piece, I carved the main part of the design first and then I added some wax to create the small tip on top of the ring. When the wax model is ready I send it to be cast in metal and once I get it back, I polish the piece to a bright shine.

I hope you guys enjoyed taking a peek at how this ring was made. It’s nice to be back to jewelry making after spending some much-needed fun days in Vancouver. I’ll try to share more about my trip in the coming weeks!

(If you want to see more on my approach, you can do so here!)

Hope you all have a lovely weekend!

–Alexandra

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2 thoughts on “Approach 05 / Path Ring

  1. Steffi keung

    Hello,

    I love your blog! Making different sies of rings is currently my issue too, nit to mention it can be costly to make the rubber molds for each.
    Do you carve a size larger than the actual size that you need? For example, in order to make size 7 rings, i was told to carve the wax models to a size 9 to account for shrinking that might occur during the casting process. It seems some pieces turn out the size I want them to be but some dont shrink a full size.
    Now i need to make size 6 rings and I think i might still just carve a wax model to a size 7. What do you think?

    Thank you!
    P.s. I totally love your designs!! :)
    Steffi

    Reply
    1. Alexandra Post author

      Hi Steffi! First of all, I’m so sorry that it has taken me this long to get back to you. I guess life got in the way and I completely forgot to write you back. Nevertheless, I wanted to thank you for reaching out and tell you that I’m so happy to hear that you love the blog.

      Regarding the carving, I totally understand where you are coming from. Right now I find myself wondering the same kinds of questions that you are pondering. If I were you, I would not carve the model more than one full size bigger. Unless you get those specific instruction from the people who are doing your molds and casting. I just finished an 8 1/4 size ring and I’m hoping that I can get an 8 and 7 mold using this wax model as my starting point. Wish me good luck!

      Reply

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